A chilly stay in the Cotswolds included a visit to a delightful pub called the Chequers Inn at Churchill, Oxfordshire. As rain lashed down outside and my dog snuggled close to the roaring fire, we tucked into plump, bouncy, interestingly devilled kidneys on toast. This is my interpretation of that heartening lunch, perfect for these…

Beetroot ticks so many boxes if it’s treated right. I love it foil-wrapped and roasted with thyme and garlic, served with a squeeze of lemon and splash of my best olive oil; at the moment extra virgin Contadino from Monte Pollino. This is a variation on that theme using boiled beets topped with creamy sheep’s…

Whenever I roast a bird, I always save the bones for stock. Pheasant produces remarkable stock. Clear like consommé, virtually fat-free, golden and richly flavoured. It gives zuppa alla Pavese, an exquisite but simple soup from Pavia, a new lease of life. Apart from good stock, it  requires very few ingredients, an egg and slice…