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Cumberland Chicken Gratin Pie

I sometimes think I could fill a book on ways to get a second meal from the remains of a roast chicken dinner. Apart from stock, which I always make with the bones and debris of the bird, there is usually enough meat to add to other ingredients to make a substantial soup, pasta sauce,…

White Beans with Clams

This is a very quick, cheat’s version of a popular Spanish dish called fabes con almejas. Instead of boiling my own beans, I chose Navarrico’s fantastically creamy large butter beans that come in a rich, silky gloop that shouldn’t be wasted. It’s a big jar – 700g, 500g drained weight – and is exactly what…

Marmalade Chicken Biryani with Mango

The sweet and sour tanginess of Seville orange marmalade adds an unconventional tang to this orange and saffron, cardamom-seasoned chicken biryani with chunks of golden mango. The dish smells wonderful as it cooks, sending exotic wafts of cardamom and orange mingling with chicken and rice around the kitchen. It’s a usefully good-natured dish and can…

Curried Parsnip Soup

I once served this soup, first popularized by Jane Grigson in an Observer article in 1969, to a sophisticated Parisian and asked him what he thought it was made of. Artichoke, he wondered, or potato and carrot? The guessing game went on until he`d run out of vegetables. My triumphant revelation of parsnip left my…

26 Jan 20

Marmalade making dominates my week using the last licks in the pan to marinate chicken for chicken and mango biryani. Cooked the first curried parsnip soup of the winter and was so pleased I did, it’s such a wonderful soup. Really pleased, too, with a chicken and sausage gratin-cum-pie made with leftovers from Sunday’s roast…

On Making Marmalade

Each year I aim to make enough marmalade for my family’s needs through the year, with plenty of smaller jars to give away. It’s easy to miss the Seville orange season because it’s short and sharp and seems to be getting earlier every year. January and February is most likely. These oranges look unpromising, small…

Eggs Masala

There was a time when I used to cook this regularly and I’d forgotten what a special dish it is. There is something immensely pleasing about the texture and mild flavour of hard-boiled eggs with a thick, chunky tomato and onion curry spiced at the last moment with a handful of fresh coriander. It is…

19 Jan 20

It’s my son Henry’s birthday today. He arrived two months early and quite by co-incidence, two of last night’s dinner guests were crucial in saving his life and mine. His arrival was dramatic, a drama that went on for months but looking at him now – tall and fit – it’s hard to believe it….

Smoked Haddock Risotto with Parmesan and Chives

Sublime comfort food. It can be made in stages. Serves 4Prep: 20 minCook: 40 min 750g un-dyed, naturally smoked haddock fillet1 bay leaf1 litre cold water50g butter1 small onion250g risotto rice300ml dry white wine½ tbsp smooth Dijon mustard4 tbsp finely grated Parmesan plus extra to serve1 heaped tbsp clotted cream2 tbsp freshly snipped chives Place…

Leek Terrine with Crevettes Grises and Lemon Vinaigrette

This is leeks vinaigrette in a different form and just as simple to make. It’s a lovely show-off dinner party dish. A slice of the pretty green and white chequerboard terrine is served eighties throw-back style surrounded by a few crevettes grises, prettily dressed with a swirl of lemon vinaigrette and sprinkling of chives. Alternatively…

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