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Author: admin

Roast Lemon Hake with Salsa Verde

I love mint and it always gives me a frisson of pleasure when I see the first leaves curling out of my enduring mint patch. I picked enough of the pink-flushed early little leaves to make salsa verde and they sang through assertive flat leaf parsley, anchovy, capers and garlic, in this versatile mayo-style dark…

Spinach Dal with Lamb Chops and Grilled Tomatoes

Greek holiday blues always leave me craving spinach dal with squashy grilled tomatoes and crusty lamb chops. It’s a great combination of creamy, spicy dal, slippery, sweet tomatoes and juicy, crusty lamb. Leftover dal is easily turned into delicious soup; I like it with scoops of mango chutney as you can see in this photo….

Mere Blanc’s Pancakes

One of my greatest gastronomic experiences was a meal at Georges Blanc’s restaurant at Vonnas near Bourg en Bresse. While the entire meal was perfection, these little pancakes stole the show. They always remind me of ice cream in wafers because the base forms a crusty surface and the potato ‘filling’ puffs but remains smaller…

One More Croissant for the Road by Felicity Cloake

Quirky is good in the current climate of cookery writing and Felicity Cloake’s One More Croissant for the Road is a very fine example. Her idea of matching a love affair with French food and a beyond ordinary love of cycling, works brilliantly. Written in a breezy, confiding style with a croissant-rating scheme at its…

24 Nov 19

Week of catching up with this website, new recipes, new thoughts about how to make it better with help from Alex. On the cooking front, getting into a happy routine of good husbandry, making leftovers sing as completely different meals but still discombobulated by not having to come up with five new Dinner Tonight recipes…

Devilled Kidneys on Toast

A chilly stay in the Cotswolds included a visit to a delightful pub called the Chequers Inn at Churchill, Oxfordshire. As rain lashed down outside and my dog snuggled close to the roaring fire, we tucked into plump, bouncy, interestingly devilled kidneys on toast. This is my interpretation of that heartening lunch, perfect for these…

Turkish Beetroot

Beetroot ticks so many boxes if it’s treated right. I love it foil-wrapped and roasted with thyme and garlic, served with a squeeze of lemon and splash of my best olive oil; at the moment extra virgin Contadino from Monte Pollino. This is a variation on that theme using boiled beets topped with creamy sheep’s…

17 Nov 19

Sunday Beautiful morning, so walked through Chiswick House to the Farmer’s Market just off the A316 to Richmond before Chiswick Bridge. I particularly wanted to buy a £1 bag of little Ergemont Russet apples from Ringden Farms, who’ve been cultivating their orchards since 1949 on the Kent/Sussex borders. They also have bags of my other…

Pheasant and Lemon Broth with Egg and Parmesan

Whenever I roast a bird, I always save the bones for stock. Pheasant produces remarkable stock. Clear like consommé, virtually fat-free, golden and richly flavoured. It gives zuppa alla Pavese, an exquisite but simple soup from Pavia, a new lease of life. Apart from good stock, it  requires very few ingredients, an egg and slice…

10 Nov 19

I lost count of the times I got caught in the rain this week but it’s been a great week of eating out, tapering off as the week progressed. Writing about the meals brought back memories of my years as a restaurant critic. I’m so used to developing recipes as I cook and then writing…

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